Anatolian Adventures: Ararat Trekking Expert

 

ABOUT MOUNT ARARAT

MOUNT ARARAT QUICK FACT BOX
Elevation 5,137 metres (16,854 ft)
Location Dogubayazit, Agri, Turkey
Range Anatolia
Prominence 3,611 m (11,847 ft) ranked 48th
Coordinates 39°42.113'N 44°17.899'E
Type Stratovolcano
Last Eruption 1840
First Ascent 1829 by F. von Parrot
Convenient Center(s) Dogubayazit, Turkey
Nearest Major Airport Van, Turkey

'Ararat' is more than the name of the mountain of which we are most speacialised in guiding on. It is the name of the sacred mountain where Noah's Ark resides, as written in the spiritual stories of the Bible and Koran

In Turkish, Mount Ararat's name is Buyuk Agri which means 'Great Agri'. Agri, in Turkish can be translated as 'Pain'.

Ararat Mountain sits within the border of Turkey but is just a short distance from Armenia and Iran.

Mt. Ararat, the extinct volcano with a height of 16,854 feet and 5,137 meters, offers a rewarding experience in the name of adventure in Turkey. A Mount Ararat trek is generally 5 days, with 4 night's camp on the slopes of the mountain. The climbing does not require any serious technical climbing ability, but one should know basic self arrest and ice-axe and crampon use for the last 200 meters of the mountain. This is certainly the case for ski touring and winter ascent of Ararat.

The highest end of 'trekking in Turkey' or 'adventure in Turkey' is the Mount Ararat ascent. Offering a completely different view over the Eastern Turkey region with the historical background of Dogubeyazit and Van city, the mountains of over 3000 meters and different cultural structures when compared to the West Anatolia regions of Turkey.

Mt. Ararat is also one of the most interesting mountains in the world to experience a ski touring adventure. Changing as the snow levels increase and decrease, skiing in Ararat always offers a completely unique slopes to summit and descent.

In the past, some of our experienced guests, like UIAGM mountain guides, have succeeded in skiing on Ararat until the last centimeter of snow during the months of February, March and April. The quality of ski touring in Ararat depends not just on the season but on the snowfall, which impacts on the snow level on Ararat during the wonderful spring season. Like other mountains in Turkey, it is hard to guess the level of snow and the duration of the winter adventure season on Ararat, but one can be sure that there will be no risk of an avalanche on an Ararat mountain ski program. There are no records of this occuring on this mountain since the start of Anatolian Adventures, and none to the memory of our guides. The slopes do not permit this activity.

For your adventure in Turkey, Anatolian Adventures will provide you with the best necessary information and invaluable expertise through our past experiences and with many satisfied guests worldwide.

LOCATION OF ARARAT MOUNTAIN

Ararat is located at Agri in eastern Turkey near the Russian and Iranian borders. As the crow flies, it is about 250 kilometers east of Erzurum, 130 kilometers southeast of Kars, and 160 kilometers north of Van. The main road between Turkey and Iran goes from Erzurum through Dogubayazit (just south of Ararat) to Tabriz. The summit of Mt. Ararat is 5,137 meters above sea level. It is higher than all mountains in the continental United States, apart from Alaska, and in all of Europe, outside the Caucasus. The nearest town to the mountain is Dogubayazit. When permits are granted for climbs up the Ararat mountain, the treks will depart from this town.

FIRST ASCENT TO MOUNTARARAT

Dr. Friedrich Parrot, with the help of Khachatur Abovian, was the first explorer in modern times to reach the summit of Mount Ararat, subsequent to the onset of Russian rule in 1829. He was followed in 1856 by a group of five explorers led by Major Robert Stuart.

MOUNT ARARAT ELEVATION DILEMMA

An elevation of 5,165 m (16,946 ft) for Mount Ararat is given by some authorities, but others, including Encyclopedia Britannica give 5,137 m (16,854 ft). Public domain and verifiable SRTM data, and a 2007 GPS measurement, not only show that 5,137 m is more accurate, but suggest that the true elevation may be lower still. The height measurement of 5,137 m is also supported by detailed topographic mapping.

CLIMBING MT. ARARAT - MOUNT ARARAT EXPEDITIONS

The 5137 meter high Mt. Ararat (Turkish: Buyuk Agri Dagi) is the highest mountain in Turkey. For European alpinists this is the nearest mountain of this height category.

Climbing Mount Ararat does not represent a major challenge for people in good physical condition. It is not necessary to have a high level of technical knowledge or climbing skills, although experience in hill walking is an advantage. However, one basic requirement is to have a very good state of fitness and stamina. Above 5,000m the air is very thin, it becomes more difficult to breathe and every step is strenuous.

Climbing the Mt. Ararat summit requires all participants to possess a very good stamina and a good level of physical fitness, yet wıth no requirement for special alpinist skills. For an optimal acclimatisation to this extreme altitude a targeted training is recommended.

The climb is long, but there is a fairly easy route from the south in late summer for climbers who are familiar with the use of axe and crampons. Snow covers the last 400 m (¼ mile) year-round and the glacier begins around 4,800 m (15,750 ft). The Turkish government requires a climbing permit and use of a certified Turkish guide. Arrangements for the permit can take two months to complete.

Mt Ararat offers a challenging climb. Unlike the Kackars, it has no green glens, canyons, rivers, lakes, or waterfalls. It is a bare mountain with a majestic peak which is difficult to reach.

Water is sparse on the mountain. In general, it is very difficult to find water outside the designated camp grounds. Since the source for this water is melted "wormy" snow, drinking it may cause diarrhea. Therefore it is advisable to bring filters and/or disinfectants.

Mount Ararat / Mount Agri is covered with volcanic rocks. It exhibits the characteristics of all volcanic mountains, that is, slopes with a gentle initial incline which become steep very quickly as the elevation increases. There are no trees on this mountain and climbers should not dream of resting on green grass under the shade of a tree.

There are 2 main camp sites on the southern route, at 3100m and at 4200m. The greenest area is at camp 3100m, although it's size is only 1000 sqm, and can be used for tents only. Camp 4200 m is rocky, the space for 20-30 tents is made of packed earth which has been cleared of rocks. If needed, one can pitch tents on leveled rocks. The rocks at this level emit sulphorous emissions and it causes difficulty in sleeping.

Environmental protection is not enforced, therefore one frequently encounters garbage. There are no rest areas for toilet facilities, but the dirt accumulated in secluded spots used for bathroom purposes, is washed away with the winter snow.

The southern route from camp 3200 to the peak is equipped with signs bearing the coordinates. But most of the posts have been demolished either by people or the harsh winds.

The view from the peak, on a clear day, is extraordinary. To the east and south you can see into Iran and Armenia , the Suphan dag and sometime to Lake Van . To the north, the Kackar Mountains and the Caucuses may be visible.

WINTER ASCENTS

Doing a winter ascent of Ararat can be compared to a 7000 meter mountain in summer conditions. Prepare yourself for tough conditions: The weather may be very cold (down to minus 30-40 degrees centigrade) and windy. To do a successful winter ascent, you will need a strong psychology and very good physical condition.

SKIING / SKI-TOURING FROM ARARAT MOUNTAIN

The best season for ski-climbing of Ararat begins in April and runs until the end of May. The weather may still be snowy in the middle of April, however, it is still possible to participate in ski touring to the summit. Usually the snow starts at 2700-2800 meters, which is why we pitch the tents at 2800 meters for Camp 1. Porters are used for carrying the luggage up to the 3800m camp site. Snow conditions are excellent and offer high quality, fresh powder, which can sometimes be hard. The skiers can ski downhill from the top (5137m), until 2800 meters. Occasionaly ski-climb skiers will need ski-crampons after Camp 2 for the summit trail.

SEASON AND WEATHER

Ararat is a dormant volcano; the last eruption was on June 2, 1840. At present the upper third of the mountain is covered with snow throughout the year and the last hundred meters of snow at the top has turned to ice. For climbers on the mountain, fresh running water is available after the sun has been up for a while to melt the snow, but is cut off late in the afternoon when cold air has overcome the heat of the sun. Below the snow, the slopes are covered with great blocks of black basalt rock, some as large as village houses.

Because of its high elevation and its distance to the sea, the climate is harsh. Summers are short, hot and dry, and winters are long, snowy and very cold. Spring and fall are rainy and mild.

Alongside this there is also a large shift between day and night time temperatures. The coldest temperatures in the country have been recorded here, between -430 and -450 degrees centigrade... The mean temperature in this area of Turkey, in the terrestrial climate region, is 6.10 centigrade.

There are noticable tempreture differences between the Northern and Southern sides of Ararat. In Igdir, on the northern slopes of the mountain, the air is hazy and cold. Dogubeyazit, on the other hand, which is situated on the southern slope, boasts of clear skies and warm weather. On days when one needs a heavy coat in Igdir, in Dogubeyazit, one can enjoy a walk under clear and sunny skies wearing just a shirt.

In the centre of this, Ararat Mountain generates its own weather conditions and therefore it is not wise to depend on weather forecasts. The peak, most extreme of this, is subject to severe winds, and sudden changes in temperature. Every year several deaths are reported due to the changing weather conditions prevailing on the mountain. One has to be equipped for the worst, and know when to quit.

In summer, the glacier on the peak is subjected to bright sun in the day time and below freezing temperatures at night. The ice is glass-like. If the temperatures are mild in the day, footing may become softer, but in all conditions one needs to wear crampons. When conditions are for glass-ice, crampons are not sufficient; and rope stations must be established. One of the best known mountaineers lost his life due to this very reason.. Some times if there is snow-fall at night it can improve conditions for the climb to the peak.

The winds at the peak are so fierce and cold that regular goretex mountaineering coats are like a sieve offering no protection. One can be frozen within ten minutes in the event of a bona-fide storm. In such extremely windy conditions it is not advisable to attempt the summit unless heavily protected. And of course, proper clothing does not stave off all danger, because there is always the risk of losing ones balance and falling off the glacial passes.

If you do want to climb in winter then be aware that mules can not be used. Only porters are available so all services fee are doubled.

The best season to ski from the top is May.

Every 30th August there is an annual climb for Victory Day on Mount Ararat. The aim is to be on top of the mountain for the 30th August and hundreds of climbers partake in this event every year. Between 28th August and 2nd September it is inadvisable to go due to the volume of people and lack of space for tents.

SOUTHERN ROUTE

The Southern route is the easiest and by far the most popular one; therefore we will describe it in detail.

The Southern route of Ararat starts in Dogubayazit. It is rated 1 (easiest in the snow), but the difficulty lies in acclimatization and the changeable weather conditions. Ararat, at an elevation of 5137 meters, is the highest mountain in Turkey by 1000 meters. The climb becomes very steep very fast, and many mountaineers can be quickly affected by mountain sickness.

AKUT (the search and rescue unit) have erected sign posts at every 100 meters along this route to denote the altitude. These irritate some of the purist climbers, but are helpful in showing the correct way up the mountain. Unfortunately, some of the signs have been damaged and it is not advisable to depend on them entirely for the climb to the peak.

The first stop after leaving Dogubayazit is the village of Eli, which is 2 hours by truck or minibus. The Camp at 3200m is generally crowded and dirty. Since there are no toilet facilities, almost all the crevices (spaces) beneath the rocks have been used as such. It is however, living up to its name, Green Camp, one of the rare places where you can find greenery and water.

From the camp at 3200, a 3 hour walk on a steep and rocky path will take you to the camp at 4200m. (Notice that the small 400m elevation difference between Eli and camp 3200 is traversed in 4 hours, and the 1000 m difference between camps 3200 and 4200 takes an equal amount of time.)

The day of the climb to the peak, should begin with the first light of dawn. The walk between camp 4200 and 4950m, where the glacier starts, is very steep and rocky. Crampons are worn from 4900m. The last bit of the climb is relatively easy with a more gentle grade. The first peak you encounter when you enter the glacier is called Inonu peak. The main peak is to your left. You reach the main peak after you pass Inonu peak, enter the cone (crater), walk a short distance on the flat and up a slight incline. The climb from camp 4200 to the main peak takes about 5-6 hours.

The descent is almost as hard as the ascent; toes and knees suffer. The route is the same in reverse.

OTHER ROUTES

You may wish to use the alternate routes to the Southern route, namely the Eastern and Western routes. Beware that they are not used often; the valleys and the plateaus at the lower skirts of the mountain have been poorly kept due to this infrequent use.

The eastern route, which is relatively popular, starts in the valley of Aras on the northern side. It continues through Serdarbulak across a deep pit (Mine Shaft) to the pass between the Little and Great Ararat mountains. The route then follows a terraced slope and reaches a rock formation known as the Rock Church. From there along a long glacial slope until, to the left, a path of loose rocks will take you to the peak.

The Northwestern route starts at a small village between Igdir and Dogubayazit and follows the trail to Lake Kup. This lake is usually used as the camp ground. After leaving the vast flat ground around the lake, take a steep glacial and rocky road to the first peak Inonu, and then on to the main peak.

The Northern route starts at Igdir; it is a difficult, technical climb on a glacial route to the right (east) of an impressively empty valley. The weather on the Northern route creates even more difficult conditions than on the Southern route. During the spring and summer months, the melting snow carries rivers of ice blocks and rocks into the valleys. Due to this it is strongly advised that you do not enter the valleys but keep to the ridges.

On the north side, Ararat has its roots in the Araxes (Aras) River valley. There it rises from the valley to an elevation of about 760 meters above sea level. In that area the Araxes River provides the border demarcation between Turkey and Russia. The top of the mountain is only about 30 kilometers from the border. For some years both the Turkish and the Soviet governments have been touchy about foreigners exploring on Ararat because of military security precautions. This has previously made it difficult for sports fans to get permission to climb the mountain. On 1st of November 2004, Ararat Mountain and it's surroundings were declared as the 35th National Park of Turkey by the Government. It is believed that this will continue to attract more visitors and boost the local economy. This industry creates and has sustained many local people working around this area. There are no ski resorts built on the mountain so far, but you never know, maybe one day... Currently the nearest one is on Bubi Mountain, open from December through to April.

What is the different between Ararat North Route (Korhan) and Classic South Route?

For many years companies have only ever organized tours from the classic south side of Ararat Mountain. The reason for the bias is that simply everything is easier on the south. This is especially true when carrying all the equipment with horses up to the high camp (4170m), as well as the further ascent to the summit. The trail to the apex is not a technical climb and most of the way can be walked. Crampons are only required after 4970 meters and for a maximum of a 45 minute walk.

On the north side the horses can only transfer until 3700 meters and at this point there are two choices. The first is to pitch tents at 3700 meters and start the summit climb from there. The second option is to use porters after 3700 and up to 4250 meters, and set up a high camp in front of the great glacier of Mt. Ararat. If we do the second option, the summit climb starts directly on the glacier. Crampons must be worn from this point to the summit. It is not overly steep but you will need to have some crampon glacier-walking experience. There are some cracks, and although not large or deep, can be dangerous when descending if the snow has closed in on one of the crevasses.

Not many people are interested in, or will have the advanced climbing skills necessary for this route. Understandably, that is why companies like us don't put this tour on the calendar. But if you have a group size bigger than 6 who are interested in climbing the North route, please contact us to further discuss details about organizing a private tour for your group.

LITTLE ARARAT

Little Ararat is closed to foreign climbers.

NOAH'S ARK

Famous in the Bible as the final resting-place of Noah's Ark, Ararat Mountain is surely the main attraction point for the Noah's Ark pilgrim. All those who are interested in the search of Noah's Ark, should know that it is strictly forbidden to start the search without the authorization of the officials and Turkish Army Forces. The Anatolian Adventures team can forward you all necessary information relating to contacting the authorities.

Mount Ararat has been wreathed in legends for millennia. In many languages, the mountain is referred to as Ararat. In Abrahamic religions, the mountain is the place Noah landed after the flood. The Sumerian Epic of Gilgamesh (c. 2000 BC) describes a great flood, as does the later record of Berossus (3rd century BC), and of course the Bible (Genesis and Gospels) and the Kur'an. In the story, a flood lasting 40 days and nights wipes out all living things except those in a boat or ark built, on orders of God, to survive The Deluge. On board the ark are male and female representatives of each species, including Noah and his wife and family. This myth has always attracted ark-hunters, who have trekked up Ararat over the years in search of Noah's Ark. The most famous of these was that led by ex-US Astronaut James Irwin in 1982. In 1985 an expedition led by David Fusold discovered a boat-shaped stone formation on a nearby mountain called Musa Dagi ("Mount Moses") east of Dogubayazit near the village of Uzengili. Using ground-penetrating sonar, Fusold mapped the site and produced intriguing but inconclusive evidence that the stone formation was anything more than a curious stone formation. Mount Ararat has also been the subject of search attempts to recover Noah's Ark. In the 1950s, the Frenchman De Navarre claimed to have found a piece of wood from the ark, but subsequent scientific dating showed it to be too recent. The story of Noah's Ark on Mount Ararat is an important feature of Judaism, Christianity, and Islam.

Across many centuries various groups have explored Ararat in the hopes of finding remains of Noah's Ark. Both Josephus in about 70 A.D. and Marco Polo in about 1300 A.D. mention the existence of the ark on the mountain, but their reports are based on others' accounts. In Josephus' account it states that the remains are on display for all to see, without the need of an organized exploration. In more recent years many groups have hunted for it there without sucsess. The possibility that these ancient fables are historical fact is intriguing, and with each new discovery of truth, in previously discredited records, gives additional strength for continuing the search for archaeological confirmation.

However, the translation of the meaning of the biblical record is not clear in itself, even if one accepts that this particular location is the correct one to look for the ark. The story describes Noah and his family using up all the wood from the ark in order to build their new homes after the flood. This has caused the destruction of many famous ancient structures in the Near East since.

The story of Noah's ark, as it is told in the Bible, is a reworking of an earlier Babylonian myth recorded in the Gilgamesh Epic. The hero of the earlier version is one Utnapishtim, the favorite of Ea, the god of wisdom. It seems probable that the Babylonian story was based on an unusually devastating flood in the Euphrates (Firat) River basin, and that the ark in it grounded on the slopes of one of the Zagros mountains. The biblical word that we read as "Ararat" could as well be read "Urartu"; the text has merely "rrt" and the proper vowels must be supplied.

Ararat is what the ancient Assyrians called the Urartian kingdom, which was centered here as early as the 13th Century BC; the word appears to be an elision of "Urartu" meaning 'mountain of mountains'. The word also meant "a land far away" and "a place in the north." So, while Buyuk Agri Dagi is a spectacular mountain and not a difficult one to climb for those experienced in high altitude exercise, it still seems less than likely that Noah's Ark will be found there. That doubt does not detract from the continuing interest in it, nor from the important achievements of archaeologists in deepening our understanding of the Old Testament.

The Ararat anomaly is an interesting feature located on the northwest corner of the Western Plateau of Mount Ararat (approximately 39°42'10'N, 44°16'30'E) at about 4,724 meters (15,500 feet), some 2.2 km (1.4 miles) west of the 5,137 m (16,854 ft) summit, on the edge of what appears from the photographs to be a steep downward slope. It is claimed by a number of Biblical literalists that this anomaly is the remains of Noah's Ark (from the Old Testament)

AGRI CITY & CULTURAL PLACES

95 kms east of Agri, is the town Dogubayazit, comprising spectacular ruins from earlier periods. Ishak Pasha Palace, 6 kms outside the town center, is the most important sight, and was constructed by the Ottoman governor, Ishak Pasha, in the 17th century. It has been restored many times since, which has resulted in a building of originally mixed architectural design. An Urartian king relief and a rock tomb dating to the 9th century BC, are other historical remains near the palace, while ruins from the same period are also to be found near Patnos, another important town of Agri province.

An interesting place is the meteoric hole, about 80 years old, located between the Gurbulak border gate and Sancavus village. It is the second largest hole of this type in the world with a width of 35m and depth of 60m.

Besides these major tourist attractions, there are other interesting features to this city. One is "Lake Balik", famous for its "trout". Still another is the local dessert "Asure", also known as "Noah's Pudding" a sweet that must be tasted.

Bubi Mountain skiing area is 18 kms from the city center has not yet been developed into much of a big resort. It's season is between December and April and it gets approximately 1-2 meters of snow. There is a 1,227 meters long teleski with a capacity of 600 persons per hour. Another skiing area is 4 kms to Eleskirt district with a 1,650 meters long and 1,000 people per hour capacity detachable chair telesiege. The skiing track is 1,200 meters long and 250 meters wide.

TOURS TO MT. ARARAT

Mount Ararat Trek

Ararat & Kackar Trekking

Eastern Anatolian Volcanoes

Taurus & Ararat Trekking


Ararat & Elbrus Trekking


Three Countries Three Peaks

Ararat & Damavand Trek

Mount Ararat Skitouring

Ararat & Damavand Skitouring
 
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