ABOUT MOUNT ELBRUS
| MOUNT ELBRUS QUICK FACT BOX |
| Elevation |
18,510 feet, 5,642 meters |
| Location |
Caucasus Mountains, Russia, Europe |
| Range |
Caucasus |
| Prominence |
4,741 m (15,554 ft) Ranked 10th |
| Coordinates |
43°21'18'N 42°26'21'E |
| Type |
Stratovolcano (dormant) |
| Last Eruption |
50 CE 50 years |
| First Ascent |
(west summit) 1874, by Florence Crauford Grove, Frederick Gardner, Horace Walker, Peter Knubel and guide Ahiya Sottaiev
(lower summit) 1829, by Chelar Hachirov |
| Convenient Center(s) |
Mineral'nye Vody, Russia |
| Nearest Major Airport |
Moscow |
Roof of Europe... One of Seven Summits... Mt. Elbrus!
Mount Elbrus is a mountain located in the western Caucasus mountain range, in Kabardino-Balkaria and Karachay-Cherkessia, Russia, near the border of Georgia, in the northern Iranian plateau. A stratovolcano that has lain dormant for about 2,000 years, it is the highest mountain in the Caucasus. Mt. Elbrus (west summit) stands at 5,642 meters (18,510 ft) and is the highest mountain in Europe; it is also the highest point of Russia. The east summit is slightly lower: 5,621 meters (18,442 ft).
LOCATION
Elbrus stands 20 km (12 miles) north of the main range of the Greater Caucasus and 65 km (40 miles) south-southwest of the Russian town of Kislovodsk. Its permanent icecap feeds 22 glaciers, which in turn give rise to the Baksan, Kuban, and Malka Rivers.
GENERAL INFORMATION
From 1959 through 1976, a cable car system was built in stages that can take visitors as high as 3,800 meters (12,500 ft). There is a wide variety of routes up the mountain, but the normal route, which is free of crevasses, continues more or less straight up the slope from the end of the cable car system. During the summer, it is not uncommon for 100 people to be attempting the summit via this route each day. Winter ascents are rare, and are usually undertaken only by very experienced climbers. Elbrus is notorious for its brutal winter weather, and summit attempts are few and far between. The climb is not technically difficult, but it is physically arduous because of the elevations and the frequent strong winds. The average annual death toll on Elbrus is 15-30, primarily due to many unorganized and poorly equipped attempts to summit the mountain.
Mount Elbrus should not be confused with the Alborz (also called Elburz) mountains in Iran, which also derive their name from the legendary mountain Hara Berezaiti in Persian mythology.
CLIMBING ROUTES
Mount Elbrus Normal Route
The Normal Route is the easiest, safest and fastest on account of the cable car and chairlift system which operates from about 9am till 3pm. Starting for the summit at about 2am from the Diesel Hut should allow just enough time to get back down to the chairlift if movement is efficient. Note in bad weather the chairlift section may be closed, also note the chairlift ride is 15 minutes long and can be very cold, particularly if you have come up from the hot valley wearing a T shirt and shorts!
The majority of groups take the cable car system from Azau roadhead to Mir Station from where either a 1 hour walk or a chairlift takes them to Garabashi - "The Barrels". Above it may be possible to hire a snow cat to go to the Diesel Hut (site of the burnt Priut Hut) or higher to Pastukhova Rocks. Walking this distance takes 90 minutes to the hut and almost 2 hours more to the rocks. The walk to the "Saddle" takes another 3 to 4 hours and from there to the summit, a further 5 to 6 hours should be allowed for.
There are no major difficulties on the route, however after strong winds icy sections may be exposed and a fall could result in a slide. Particular care should be taken on the traversing ascent from the Saddle. The Saddle hut is a ruin that offers no shelter. There are few crevasses of any size or danger if you stick to the route but only 50m off the route you could be in dangerous terrain.
Mt. Elbrus Kiukurtliu Route
A longer ascent route starts from below the cable-way Mir station and heads west over glacier slopes towards the Khotiutau pass. Some distance before reaching this south spur of the Kiukurtliu Cupola is climbed to a broad glaciated saddle behind pt.4912 (top of the SW spur). Now a rising traverse north is made to attain the easy northwest spur by which the summit is gained. This expedition involves 3 nights' camping-bivouacs; parties also need a rope, ice-axe and crampons.
Other Routes of Elbrus Mountain
Climbing Elbrus from other directions is a tougher proposition because of lack of permanent high facilities. Fresh field always maintained that a route from the east up the Iryk valley, Irykchat glacier and over the Irykchat pass (3667m) on to snowfields below long rock ribs of the east spur would become the shortest and most used approach. A hut built long ago on the north side of the lrykchat pass is now wrecked, and in any event the vertical interval calls for at least 2 camp-bivouacs.
ANATOLIAN ADVENTURES TREKS TO ELBRUS
You can find below links to our tours and treks to Mt. Elbrus:
http://www.anatolianadventures.com/eng/tours/trek/elbrustrek.html
http://www.anatolianadventures.com/eng/tours/trek/ararat_elbrus.html
http://www.anatolianadventures.com/eng/tours/trek/elbrusnorth.html
http://www.anatolianadventures.com/eng/tours/trek/threepeaks.html
